Problems fixed!

Ok - speedo cable grenaded itself so the squeaking stopped. Cheap and easy fix.

The parts came in for the shift tower thingy.  It is a defender type with a pressed steel pin instead of a set screw.

I guess the slop of the old shifter was the reason for a 'notchy' gearbox.  This thing shifts like butter now.  (cold butter, but butter)  There is a BIG e-clip that keeps the shifter spring in along with a lower flat washer and a conical upper washer.     1/2 hour job after paint dries.

I checked the  reverse wires for grounding etc.. but could not find a short. 

Houston, we have heater.  On a 39 degree day there is a warm waft of air that circulates thru the front of the cab before getting sucked out the seal - lacking rear windows.

 New LAND ROVER brake switch.  It works!

 Here is the reverse short after putting back on the tunnel cover.  My reverse switch + terminal is directly behind the 4wd push lever mounting bolt.  After a couple hundred miles the bolt wore thru the heat shrink and shorted - problem fixed w ground down bolt.

small trip into dallas, bad brake switch, cooked wire, shifter, speedo cables

Oh where to begin...  shifter set screw came out leaving me stuck in reverse for a while until I could get the shifter into the forks.  Just got a new defender style shifter tower with a pressed steel pin to replace it.  OOH.  AAH.
  I had to get a cheapo generic brake switch so I could go on a field trip with my kid into dallas.  I built a temporary bracket in the cab for it where the pedal actually contacts the switch.    Some of the brass switches are crap (2 went out in three months) so I ordered an ACTUAL land rover switch to the tune of $36.  It has more epoxy around the connectors - will see how it works tomorrow.
Lets see what else ... oh yeh , backing out of the garage I noticed a light haze coming from the firewall (bulkhead) area.  I shut it off immediately and found the reverse light power wire had cooked off about 3" (75mm) of insulation for whatever reason.  It didn't seem to affect anything else- so I put a fuse inline.  It kept popping so when replacing the shifter I bet I'll find the problem with the wires. Probably nicked it putting the floor boards back in.  Just no reverse lights for now. 
And lastly the speedo cable end broke off in the speedo.  I got it out and shaved off 1/4" of speedo cable housing.  It works again but has a squeak up to 5 mph.  It'll probably go away.  Or jam up, wrap up all the wiring in the dash and catch fire going down the highway.  But that could never happen.

Step by step agony V2

Heres why I left a glazings thickness around the outer edge of  the window.

I cut 3 glass thickness strips and rounded the front corners

top and bottom and lower rear so the glass is well sealed and protected from

hitting the metal of the frame.

Here it is in the frame

and again....

Press around the edges of the window to smush (technical term) the glazing

into the form of the frame a little.  I think a hotter day than 61 degrees would help this process.

Screw down the front bracket to keep it in place.

This is the lower  spacer for the window, it is the same piece as on the top of the frame.

The lower weather strip has to have the large oval hole over the window lock.

On the first door I tried re using the original screw holes.  Nearly impossible to align

the weather stripping and aluminum spacers and get the same hole.  Plus some holes

are stripped out.   I found it easier to drill new holes.

I used the wide flat blade screw driver to push the stipping up against the glass while drilling

the new holes.  When the screws are put in - the stipping pressed the glass against the glazing

and the glazing against the outer metal.