The daytime temps are hovering around 50 now, robins are invading my yard, so its time to come out of hibernation.
I got the aluminum rear brake cylinder replaced with a lockheed brand cast iron cylinder. (could also be used as a small boat anchor)
Amazingly, it seems the fluid stayed in the rear brake lines, so all that had to be bled was the master cylinder and the new wheel cylinder. The brakes are awesome again. Drove it around with the "new" stock 17+\-" steering wheel and it steers really easily, brakes good, and takes off like a herd of turtles.
Except for the rear main oil seal leaking, its getting to the point where I'm going to have to screw down the floorboards again.
The other day I propped open the throttle half way for 10+ minutes to blow the webs out of it and the rear main had a oil mucus plug blow out. Now it leaks evenly but runs better.
Needed: paint, shocks x 4, roll cage, lower seat belt anchors (had them, can't find them now), and some weather stripping for the front/ top/ sides.
This is my attempt to bring a 1973 Series 3 Land Rover 88" SWB back to life that I found in a field about a year and a half ago.
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Sunday, February 7, 2010
New steering
Yes, the steering was Vette tight, but I scored a decent steering wheel and great column that I'm going to use to
A: make it original
B: have a removeable steering wheel so the dash can be worked on without standing on my head.
In hindsight: Removing the transmission is easier than this. What where they thinking? There are about 14 dozen little bolts, with washers and lock washers, all facing in ward so you have to have tiny monkey hands to reach them.
There are 4 large bolts that hold the throttle linkage, braces and steering box in place, and 3 long brace to frame bolts.
Due to the proximity of the steering arm to the intake, you would have to remove the engine to get the steering arm off. Luckily with a puller and a propane torch the arm came off the new one and the old one came out complete. Total time... 3 hours and 3 ibuprofin.
Heres the linkage:
The firewall (usually the rust accumulater of the body) is in real good shape compared to a lot of the ones you see on the web.
OH NO! I FOUND RUST! No biggie, literally. The hole is about the size of a pencil.
That's more than the frame had on it. :)
Heres the next box and cleaned braces
A: make it original
B: have a removeable steering wheel so the dash can be worked on without standing on my head.
In hindsight: Removing the transmission is easier than this. What where they thinking? There are about 14 dozen little bolts, with washers and lock washers, all facing in ward so you have to have tiny monkey hands to reach them.
There are 4 large bolts that hold the throttle linkage, braces and steering box in place, and 3 long brace to frame bolts.
Due to the proximity of the steering arm to the intake, you would have to remove the engine to get the steering arm off. Luckily with a puller and a propane torch the arm came off the new one and the old one came out complete. Total time... 3 hours and 3 ibuprofin.
Heres the linkage:
The firewall (usually the rust accumulater of the body) is in real good shape compared to a lot of the ones you see on the web.
OH NO! I FOUND RUST! No biggie, literally. The hole is about the size of a pencil.
That's more than the frame had on it. :)
Heres the next box and cleaned braces
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